Salmon’s journey from an undervalued fish to a global culinary delight is both fascinating and surprising.

Once misunderstood and even dismissed, salmon has become a star on plates worldwide. Here’s how this remarkable transformation occurred.

<h3>1. What Is Salmon?</h3>

The name “salmon” derives from the Latin word salmo, historically used to describe a fish native to the North Atlantic. These fish are known for their annual migration to upstream European rivers to spawn, often leaping over waterfalls in the process. Swedish biologist Carl Linnaeus later classified this fish as Salmo salar, or Atlantic salmon.

With its vibrant color, rich flavor, and appealing texture, salmon naturally exudes a "ready-to-be-eaten" allure. The term "salmon" was introduced to Chinese-speaking regions through Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan, where the English name Atlantic salmon was phonetically translated into (sān wén yú) in Cantonese.

In Chinese contexts, salmon generally refers to Atlantic salmon, such as those sourced from Norway, Australia, or Scotland. However, other salmonid species, like the chum salmon of Northeast China or the "snow mountain salmon" from Lijiang, also fall under the broader salmon category. This makes "salmon" more of a trade name than a strict biological classification.

The Scientific Difference Between Cooking Wild and Farmed Salmon

Video by America's Test Kitchen

<h3>2. Is Modern Salmon Mostly Farmed?</h3>

Salmon's immense popularity as a delicacy has led to heavy fishing in the North Atlantic, resulting in a sharp decline in wild populations. The salmon’s migratory lifestyle, which involves hatching in freshwater, maturing in the sea, and returning upstream to spawn, further limits its natural numbers. During this arduous journey, salmon rely entirely on stored oil and protein, leaping up to 60 centimeters to overcome obstacles while evading predators.

To address dwindling stocks, Norway began experimenting with salmon farming in the 1960s. This method protected salmon from predators and provided abundant feed, leading to a significant increase in their population.

The Pacific salmon also emerged as a significant player in the global market, with its farming and harvesting expanding rapidly. Some Pacific salmon species closely resemble Atlantic salmon, and both are often marketed under the familiar "salmon" label to appeal to consumers. To differentiate themselves, Atlantic salmon producers, particularly in Norway, began emphasizing their product's origin as "Norwegian salmon."

<h3>3. Did Japanese People Always Eat Salmon Sashimi?</h3>

Surprisingly, raw salmon wasn’t always popular in Japan. Traditionally, Japanese people avoided raw salmon due to its association with stomach pain and diarrhea caused by the Anisakis parasite found in wild salmon, which feed on krill.

The shift occurred thanks to Norwegian innovation. Farmed salmon, fed on parasite-free diets, became safe for raw consumption, with its pink flesh adding visual appeal. Norwegian salmon earned the title of "sashimi-grade salmon," marking the start of its global rise.

In 1974, a Norwegian fisheries delegation visited Japan, recognizing the growing demand for seafood due to rapid urbanization and population growth. However, Japanese fish markets initially rejected Norwegian salmon, perceiving it as inferior. Norwegian businessman Bjørn Ørbeck Olsen targeted the emerging conveyor belt sushi restaurants, where affordable and varied options attracted diners. This strategy introduced Norwegian salmon to the Japanese public.

Salmon’s rich, fatty texture rivaled the prized tuna belly but at a more accessible price. By 1995, Norway's salmon exports to Japan skyrocketed from two tons in 1980 to 6,000 tons, firmly establishing salmon as a staple in Japanese cuisine.

<h3>4. Where Does China Import Its Salmon From?</h3>

As raw salmon gained popularity in Japan, it also found its way to Chinese markets. By 2013, China’s imports of Norwegian salmon had surpassed Japan’s, with 80-90% designated for raw consumption.

China now imports approximately 80,000 tons of fresh and frozen salmon annually, with major sources including Chile, Norway, the Faroe Islands, Australia, and Canada. Norwegian salmon exports to China have shown remarkable growth, with a 92% increase in the first three quarters of 2019 compared to the previous year. Norway remains a preferred source for 44% of Chinese consumers prioritizing seafood origin.

While quality inspections focus on foodborne bacteria, some instances of non-compliance in imported salmon have been reported. Despite this, no conclusive evidence links these issues to the salmon itself.